Colorful Kadikoy — The informal face of Istanbul
Think Istanbul is mostly mosques and eastern bazaars? Think again! Seasoned travelers have long favored the Asian side of Istanbul, specifically Kadıköy.
While our mothers happily visit the European part of the city to follow in the footsteps of the famous Hürrem and see locations from the beloved series "Magnificent Century," the younger generation heads to Asia. Here you'll find colorful murals, trendy showrooms, cool authentic bars with live music, and the Marmara Sea promenade with orange sunsets. In short, pretty much everything that comes to mind when you hear the phrase "ideal life." Interestingly, such progressive Kadıköy borders the rather conservative Üsküdar district. But on the other hand, it's not surprising, as Istanbul is a city of contrasts where different religions and cultures have coexisted for centuries.
While our mothers happily visit the European part of the city to follow in the footsteps of the famous Hürrem and see locations from the beloved series "Magnificent Century," the younger generation heads to Asia. Here you'll find colorful murals, trendy showrooms, cool authentic bars with live music, and the Marmara Sea promenade with orange sunsets. In short, pretty much everything that comes to mind when you hear the phrase "ideal life." Interestingly, such progressive Kadıköy borders the rather conservative Üsküdar district. But on the other hand, it's not surprising, as Istanbul is a city of contrasts where different religions and cultures have coexisted for centuries.
Kadıköy consists of two words: "kadı" meaning "judge" and "köy" meaning "village" – so, "judge's village." Probably these lands were granted to some servant of order in the Ottoman Empire to govern. Now Kadıköy is perhaps the most carefree district of the city. Only the name remains of justice. Immigrants and Turkish youth dream of living here. Here, morning doesn't start before 1:00 PM, but at night you definitely won't get any sleep because life is boiling. Don't worry, breakfast cafes open early, as freelancers need somewhere to drink coconut lattes and work on their laptops.
What attractions in the Asian part of Istanbul are worth visiting? Where should you try the most delicious breakfasts and kebabs? Where should you walk around? I'll tell you in this article.
What attractions in the Asian part of Istanbul are worth visiting? Where should you try the most delicious breakfasts and kebabs? Where should you walk around? I'll tell you in this article.
How to get there
You absolutely must get to Kadıköy by boat. From the European part, ferries depart from Eminönü and Karaköy stations every 20 minutes. The water journey across the Bosphorus strait takes no more than 25 minutes. You can also book a water tour from Courage-Voyage and comfortably end your voyage on the Asian side.
What to see
Selimiye Barracks
Selimiye Barracks attract attention even during the boat trip, as the building is one of the largest on the Asian side. During the Crimean War in the 19th century, the barracks served as a British military base and hospital. It was here that the English nurse Florence Nightingale understood the importance of sanitary conditions for the successful treatment of the wounded. Now the building houses a museum named after her.
Haydarpasha
The first thing you'll see when docking on the other side of the Bosphorus is the Haydarpaşa railway station. It was built in the early 20th century. From here, the train to Baghdad departed. Unfortunately, the station has long been under restoration after a fire that occurred in 2010. When they removed the railway tracks, they found an ancient city underneath. There's no money for excavations, and they can't lay the railway on top, so everything is on pause.
Bull Statue
This is the main meeting place in Asia. Like the Pushkin monument in Moscow. The bull stands in Altınyol Square, from which 6 streets fan out. The bull traveled extensively before taking its place in Istanbul. It was made in France by a local sculptor, then the statue went to Germany, and from there it went straight to Turkey as a gift to a statesman. In Istanbul, the bull also changed several locations before settling in Kadıköy. Fenerbahçe fans constantly dress the statue in their favorite football team's uniform.
Bahariye Street
It represents a collection of shops, cafes, and Istanbul's colorful character. The Asian part also has its old tram, and its route runs right through Bahariye.
Holy Trinity Church
One of the largest Christian churches in Istanbul. It is still open to visitors, but you should check the opening hours in advance.
Kadıköy Market
Among the trendy showrooms and souvenir shops are market stalls where you can buy fresh fruits, vegetables, fish, and meat.
Streets of bars, meyhanes, and antiques
In Kadıköy, different establishments are concentrated on different streets. Of course, you can find everything in one place. But it's much more interesting to go, for example, to the bar street – Kadife Sokak.
There is also a meyhane street – Dumlupınar Sokak. Meyhanes are traditional Turkish establishments that serve various meze, fish, meat, and of course rakı – Turkish anise vodka. Turks poetically call rakı "lioness milk" because when mixed with water, rakı turns white. That's why they consider themselves sons of lions.
You can go to the antique street Tellalzade to find real ancient treasures.
There is also a meyhane street – Dumlupınar Sokak. Meyhanes are traditional Turkish establishments that serve various meze, fish, meat, and of course rakı – Turkish anise vodka. Turks poetically call rakı "lioness milk" because when mixed with water, rakı turns white. That's why they consider themselves sons of lions.
You can go to the antique street Tellalzade to find real ancient treasures.
Moda
Excuse the tautology, but Moda is the most fashionable street in Kadıköy. This is where people who love to be at the center of events live and spend their time. All the most Instagram-worthy establishments are concentrated in this part of the district. Moda stretches to the Marmara Sea itself and ends with a pier. Previously it was a ferry dock, but now there's an atmospheric cafe here. It's worth stopping by to drink tea, read a book, hang out with a laptop, and most importantly, to admire the sunsets.
One of Istanbul's most charming monuments is installed on Moda Street – a statue of the street dog Tarçın. Tarçın (or simply "Cinnamon") was a happy and well-fed Kadıköy dog. She lived her life admiring the sea, chasing cats and seagulls, wanting for nothing. The locals adored her. One day, Tarçın died under the wheels of a car. In memory of the dog, a sculpture was installed at her favorite spot.
Nearby is the Big Chefs restaurant with an extensive menu and stunning sea views. More about it in the article about breakfasts.
One of Istanbul's most charming monuments is installed on Moda Street – a statue of the street dog Tarçın. Tarçın (or simply "Cinnamon") was a happy and well-fed Kadıköy dog. She lived her life admiring the sea, chasing cats and seagulls, wanting for nothing. The locals adored her. One day, Tarçın died under the wheels of a car. In memory of the dog, a sculpture was installed at her favorite spot.
Nearby is the Big Chefs restaurant with an extensive menu and stunning sea views. More about it in the article about breakfasts.
Kadıköy Moda Sahil Parkı
Be sure to walk along the promenade and in Kadıköy Moda Sahil Parkı to feel how much the vibe of Asian Istanbul differs from the European side. I recommend walking past the Fenerbahçe stadium and having coffee in the Kalamış marina area. You'll admire the luxurious yachts and see the wealthy Istanbul shown in modern series. You can also sail to Asia as part of a sea tour with Courage-Voyage.
Voyage in Istanbul with Courage-Voyage
With Courage-Voyage, you can see Istanbul from the water, admiring its main attractions from a unique perspective. Choose from a 2-hour Bosphorus voyage to a full-day adventure to the Princes' Islands, and finish your journey in the colorful Kadıköy.
Learn more
Baghdad Street
Usually only the most seasoned travelers get here, but I strongly recommend setting aside a few hours for Baghdad. A quiet area, modern houses, trendy shops, beautiful restaurants with terraces, and tall plane trees create a special atmosphere. Here, like nowhere else, you can see that Istanbul has hundreds of masks, and it constantly reveals its diversity to us. This city can charm anyone. There's a park called Göztepe 60 Yıl Parkı on the street, where in April you can see thousands of colorful tulips. The compositions are no worse than in Topkapi Palace park, and there are many fewer tourists. From Baghdad Street, you can go down to the Marmara Sea. In this part of the city, there's a wide promenade where locals come for picnics and sunsets.
Near Baghdad Street, there's an excellent breakfast cafe called Ethem Efendi Kahvaltı. I've written about it in more detail here.
Near Baghdad Street, there's an excellent breakfast cafe called Ethem Efendi Kahvaltı. I've written about it in more detail here.
Where to eat
Şekerci Cafe Erol
The cafe is famous not only for its wide selection of traditional and trendy sweets but also for its facade. The thing is, the owners decorate the facade according to each holiday theme. The brightest compositions are made for New Year.
Vero Gelato
In case you're tired of Turkish dondurma. Vero Gelato is a real Italian gelateria where ice cream is made according to traditional recipes brought from Italy. Dozens of flavors, strong Italian coffee, and the most delicate tiramisu.
Çiya Sofrası
If you want to try truly delicious kebab and other Turkish dishes, you should definitely visit Çiya Sofrası. You'll find several dozen types of kebabs from different regions of Turkey: adana kebab, urfa, kebab with pistachios and with cherries. Be sure to leave room for dessert. There are also many surprises here: desserts made from tomatoes, eggplants, pumpkins, milk puddings, and baklava. Çiya Sofrası also serves sherbet — the favorite drink of sultans and their concubines.
Viktor Levi Şarap Evi
It's no secret that it's quite difficult to find quality wine in Turkey. Beer, rakı — sure, but with wine, you really need to know worthy brands and places. Viktor Levi Şarap Evi is a wine house with an excellent reputation. Here you can order exquisite local wine, cheeses, and other dishes. All this in an old mansion with a green terrace.
Hamsi Pub Et & Balık
A restaurant for fish lovers. Famous for fresh seafood, original meze, and excellent Turkish service. It's customary to order rakı here, but if you're not a fan of strong alcohol, no one will look at you sideways. Just come to try the most delicious fish dishes.
Say Cheese
An option for an unhurried snack. The establishment makes pasta in a cheese wheel. You simply choose which ingredients to add to the dish, and then enjoy fresh pasta right on the streets of Kadıköy. The place has both tables and benches to eat literally on your knees. Very unusual and atmospheric.
Brekkie Breakfast Club
A cafe for beautiful European-style breakfasts. The main character of the menu is the croissant. The dishes are tasty and Instagram-worthy. The place itself is stylish and crowded, just like Kadıköy itself.
As you can see, Kadıköy is not just a district of Istanbul; it has a lot to boast about. It's a cultural and gastronomic center that combines the modern rhythms of a big city with Eastern comfort. Orthodox churches, narrow streets with bars, a noisy market, promenades, and historical attractions make Kadıköy a must-visit to get acquainted with another, informal Istanbul. Walking through its streets, you'll feel the harmony in which traditions and modernity coexist. I'm sure that once you come here, you'll be left with a pleasant aftertaste and a desire to return again.
Ekaterina Kosova
- author of the article
I moved to Istanbul before it became mainstream. I love exploring the eternal city and discovering interesting and delicious places. I write texts, professionally stroll and travel, and freeze moments through photos and videos.
