Islands, palaces, submarines — pages of history of St. Petersburg dachas

The history of Russian dachas did not begin with cucumbers in garden beds, but with royal ambitions. Even Peter I, wishing to beautify the road to Peterhof, distributed plots along the Gulf of Finland to his courtiers with one condition: build a palace, create a garden, and "delight the eye." Thus were born the first dachas — a symbol of status and obligation in one package. By the 19th century, countryside recreation became widespread, and the jewels of dacha life became St. Petersburg's islands: Kamenny — a haven for the elite, Krestovsky — a kingdom of sports, Yelagin — a poetic corner of white nights. Here they strolled until sunset, argued about the fate of the empire, and even tested submarines. How did ordinary "six acres" transform into a cultural phenomenon that survived centuries? We embark on a journey from the decrees of Nicholas I to the dacha etiquette of the Silver Age.

The first imperial decree containing the word "dacha" in its modern meaning was signed by Nicholas I on November 29, 1844. The decree was called "On the distribution of suburban land in Kronstadt for the construction of houses or dachas and the cultivation of gardens." Dachas as places of recreation for city dwellers became widespread from the 1860s. But the first ones appeared under Peter I. In order to keep the right people always at hand, for the suburbs of the new capital to flourish, and to make the journey to Peterhof not boring, Peter came up with this dacha arrangement. Having divided the land along the Gulf of Finland into narrow long plots, the reformer tsar freely distributed these peculiar "six acres" to his close associates and courtiers. But this was not only a reward, but also an obligation. The obligation to maintain the plot in order, build a palace on it, create a garden, and beautify the shore. Inside there could be even a pig farm, but outside there had to be beauty. So that when traveling from St. Petersburg to Peterhof, the views from the carriage window would delight. And to save state money. Better to build another ship than some new shopping center.

The calculation was correct. Soon around St. Petersburg, like a necklace, suburbs began to sparkle.

But if Strelna, Peterhof, Oranienbaum are far away, then such a jewel as the Islands — Petrovsky, Kamenny, Krestovsky, Yelagin — are within arm's reach.

"I sail into the Neva. The islands are like a crown," wrote the poet Sasha Cherny.

"Why do you Russians need to go to Baden-Baden," foreigners would say, "when you have such beautiful Islands!"

Getting to the Islands required neither much time nor great expense. It was enough to hire a boat. Or board a steamboat at the Summer Palace that ran precisely on schedule.

People went to the Islands for one evening. After all, there were many entertainments there. Taverns, roller coasters, and walking paths. And fantastic summer sunsets. In the evening, the sun set directly into the bay. A short white night would fall. And literally two hours later came the sunrise, no less colorful.

People went to the Islands for the whole summer, to dachas. Some rented, some built their own. The dacha estates there resembled palaces.

Each island had its own character. Each island lived its own life. Petrovsky — park-industrial. Kamenny — elite. Krestovsky — democratic. Yelagin — aristocratic.

The Finnish name Patsas saari — Pillar Island. It was called Pillar Island in pre-Petrine times. Pilots lived on it, guiding ships from the sea into the Neva. It received the name Petrovsky from Peter the Great himself, who took it into personal ownership. The island was the lowest and most inconvenient. And Peter wanted to show how to handle lands, improve them and make them suitable for life. But there wasn't enough time for all his plans. He only managed to build a small house. Having settled "several families of Samoyeds from Arkhangelsk province near it, and breeding numerous peacocks, Peter showed no particular care for the island" ("How St. Petersburg arose, was founded and grew." Essay by P.N. Stolpyansky. "Kolos" Publishing House, 1918).

Anna Ioannovna in 1733 transferred the island from private ownership to the Palace administration. The office began willingly renting out lands and giving permission for the construction of shops, barns, and warehouses. The places were low-lying, convenient for ships to approach. In case of fire — the fire wouldn't spread from the island to the city.

Catherine II loved to publicize her respect for Peter's memory and built a Palace on Petrovsky Island. Around it she created a park in French style. Eight straight alleys radiated from the palace. The empress often sailed here in boats. She loved to feast on sterlet fish soup.

Then the palace was forgotten. In 1801, already considerably dilapidated, it was transferred to the Free Economic Society along with the lands, for conducting agricultural experiments. But what kind of agriculture could there be if the island was flooded with water every autumn. Sometimes it wasn't just flooded, but the fertile soil was washed away, greenhouses and fences were destroyed. In general, expenses exceeded income. Then the Society came up with a solution. It built 10 dachas and rented them out. According to the lease agreement, the tenant could develop the plot at their discretion, but at the end of the term everything built became the property of the Society. Baron Witte, future finance minister Vronchenko, Doctor Zadler and many other notable persons erected dachas on Petrovsky. They filled in swamps, built piers, and arranged pile embankments. Along the banks of the Little Neva and Little Nevka, elegant dacha palaces arose.

But in 1836 Nicholas I took the lands away from the Society (but not from the owners!) and took up establishing order. In the eastern part they laid out the Great Petrovsky Park with carriage and pedestrian paths. They planted a huge number of valuable coniferous and deciduous trees. They connected it with bridges to the city and other islands. Now it was possible to get there from the center not only by boats, but also on foot and on horseback. The emperor himself outlined the route: from the Tuchkov Bridge embankment through Zhdanovsky Bridge to Petrovsky Island. Then along the carriage roads to the Great Petrovsky Bridge, then to Krestovsky Island, and from there to Kamenny and Yelagin. And Petrovsky Island, never quite deciding whether it was for recreation or work, divided into conditional zones. In the western part, a dacha territory was formed. In the central part — industrial: Goth's rope factory, the "Bavaria" brewery. And then production came to the western part too — Rops oil refinery. What kind of pastorals could there be?

Well, Petrovsky Island never became completely dacha-oriented. This also didn't happen because nearby were comfortably located Kamenny, Krestovsky and Yelagin. They were more convenient for recreation.

Risti saari — cross island. According to one legend, the island was named Krestovsky because when building a mansion for Peter I's sister, Natalia, a cross was found. According to another legend, originally the forest clearings were arranged cross-wise. According to a third legend — there was a cross-shaped lake on the island. Be that as it may, in both Russian and Finnish the island is Krestovsky. Peter gave it to his beloved sister Natalia and often visited her there. Natalia died, and in 1731 the island was granted to Count Münich. He had many land plots in St. Petersburg and wasn't interested in the island. One more, one less. But he considered it necessary to rename it. And during the time of Anna Ioannovna the island was called Khristophorov. Soon Münich fell into disgrace, the island was given to another royal favorite — Alexei Razumovsky. He gave it as a gift to his brother Kirill. Kirill began to settle in. By the end of the 18th century, on Krestovsky Island there was a master's stone house with two wings, transported from the Moika. There was a large garden and a "manured" vegetable garden. In the garden, Count K. Razumovsky had "quite good varieties of strawberries and berry bushes, i.e. raspberries, currants, gooseberries." A large dairy farm was operated. But soon Hetman Razumovsky left St. Petersburg for his place of service, to Little Russia.

In early 1803 the island was sold to Prince Beloselsky-Belozersky for 120 thousand rubles. The prince began actively renting out lands. Along the Krestovka River — for dachas. The rest — for various entertainments. Even fishing grounds were used for amusement. Fishermen, for a separate fee, would cast nets, and give the catch to whoever paid. A German and Russian tavern appeared. The garden was lit by kerosene lanterns. Steamboats briskly brought the public from the Summer Garden. The island became an island of entertainment.

Sports clubs, grounds, and societies also actively grew on the island. The Imperial Yacht Club, River Yacht Club, rowing clubs, football fields, swimming schools. The most famous tennis courts were on Krestovsky. In 1903, the first women's wrestling championship was held on the island. There was also a pigeon shooting society on Krestovsky. Once upon a time, such a sport was part of the Olympic program. Thus Krestovsky Island gained sporting fame.

The status of the island was curious. It was a princely estate. Besides the Beloselsky-Belozersky family and their serfs, no one permanently resided on the island for a long time. On Krestovsky there was neither municipal nor judicial authority, municipal building rules did not apply. All disputes were settled by the prince himself. In the 1900s, the princely family began selling off lands. The new islanders found themselves in a strange situation. They seemed to live in the city, but without rules and laws. City authorities did nothing to resolve the issue of water supply and sewerage. They were in no hurry to lay tramway tracks. Residents wrote letters, complained, demanded. They even raised the question of a concession. It was in the air that Krestovsky Island might turn into the city of Krestovsk. Everything was resolved in 1917. In August, the Provisional Government by its decree annexed Krestovsky Island together with the village of Novo-Krestovskaya to Petrograd. No one heard the fighters for independence of a single island, there was no time for that in 1917.

The island lost its merry status. Active construction with wooden houses and cottages made it resemble a large village.

This is what the poet Agnivtsev called the island. Its first name was Mistulosari — Bear Island. In 1703, a detachment of Preobrazhensky Guards landed on the island. Making their way through dense bushes, they heard crackling and noise ahead. The soldiers froze, expecting Swedish soldiers. But a bear tumbled out of the bushes. "Phew, damnation! The island turns out to be not Swedish, but bear's!"

From Peter I, this island was solicited by Baron Peter Pavlovich Shafirov and officially gave it his name — Shafirov Island. But royal love is an unreliable thing. And soon the island passed to Yaguzhinskiy, Peter's orderly. Yaguzhinskiy renamed the island back to Mishin. From Yaguzhinskiy's son, the island passed to A.P. Melgunov and received the name — Melgunov Island. Soon the official went to Yaroslavl to be governor, and sold the island to Grigory Potemkin. From him the island was acquired by Ivan Perfilyevich Yelagin — state secretary for receiving petitions, theater lover and mason. He decides to make the island accessible not only to nobility, but to all who wish. Yelagin undertakes its development. He brings in oaks, lindens, maples. Surrounds it with a wide rampart for protection from floods. Clears groves, fills in swamps, digs ponds. Arranges a wide embankment of wild stone opposite Kamenny Island. Installs 12 cannons on it, which salute when the empress comes to the island.

After the death of I.P. Yelagin, the island passed to Count Orlov. In 1817, Emperor Alexander I buys out the island for 350 thousand rubles. He decides to arrange a dacha here for his mother, Maria Feodorovna. It was already difficult for her to travel to Pavlovsk. And here was everything needed. Water, air, earth, and sun. For the development of the island, Alexander I turns to Agustín de Betancourt, and he recommends the unknown K. Rossi. In 1818, the reconstruction of the island begins. By 1824 everything was ready. The palace was rebuilt, utility buildings were erected that looked nothing like utility buildings. They are works of art. For example, the Kitchen building. It more resembles an ancient temple with sculptures of gods. The building's windows face the courtyard, so that not a single smell from the kitchen would interrupt the freshness of the air and the aroma of flowers. Also built were the Stable building, the Pavilion under the flag, the Guardhouse building, the Music pavilion, the Gentlemen's and Ladies-in-waiting buildings and the House of gardener Buk.

A special pride of the masters who created the park is the western tip of the island. It became a favorite walking place for St. Petersburg residents. They developed a fascination with the Tip of Yelagin Island. More precisely — admiring the sunset at this very tip.

Whether this is true or not, the place became very popular. Here Dmitry Merezhkovsky spent summer months as a child. Pyotr Stolypin after the assassination attempt lived on Yelagin for four seasons. And not just with his family, but practically with the entire government apparatus. Lovers, poets, and poet-lovers liked to walk there.

Again snow-covered columns
Yelagin bridge and two lights.
And the voice of a woman in love.
And the crunch of sand and snorting of a horse.
(A. Blok. On the islands)

The island had no Finnish or Swedish name. It was originally Kamenny (Stone). True, in Soviet times it changed its name. It was called the Island of Workers. But owners it had — more than enough. Under Peter the Great — the first chancellor Count Gabriel Golovkin. A clever courtier, he skillfully used the favor of royal personages. But his son, Mikhail, as they say, entered the wrong door — he supported Anna Leopoldovna in her claims to the throne. The result: prison, scaffold on Senate Square, commutation of execution to exile to the Yakutsk region.

The confiscated Kamenny Island was gifted to Count A.P. Bestuzhev-Ryumin. The count zealously took up its development. For the palace construction he invited none other than Rastrelli himself. For the work he brought peasants from Little Russia. They set about draining swamps and clearing forests.

Alexei Petrovich Bestuzhev-Ryumin was an extraordinary man. Intelligent and hardworking, an avid card player and lover of drink, he never lost his head. He took bribes from nobles not only of the Russian court, but also from foreigners. The only ones he didn't take from were enemies of Russia. Contemporaries knew him as a great intriguer. Under Anna Ioannovna he was in Biron's inner circle. After Biron's fall, Bestuzhev also fell into disgrace. He was arrested, sat in Shlisselburg. Elizabeth returned Alexei Petrovich to state service. During Elizabeth's illness he plotted intrigues against Peter III. He pushed for Pavel under Catherine's guardianship. Elizabeth recovered and exiled Bestuzhev, almost even executed him. But soon everything changed again on the Russian throne. Catherine II rescued Bestuzhev from exile, returned all ranks, positions and awards. Only his former influence didn't return to Bestuzhev-Ryumin. Catherine already had new friends-comrades, younger ones.

In 1765, Catherine II either bought out or confiscated Kamenny Island from the elderly Bestuzhev, in general returned it to the treasury, and gave it as a gift to her son Paul I. But he loved Gatchina and was on Kamenny only twice. But Pushkin often stayed there at the dacha of Dolivo-Dobrovolsky. On the island Alexander Sergeevich wrote his famous poem "I have erected a monument to myself not made by hands." It was here that the Bronze Horseman came galloping with thunder through the entire city. And in the Precursor Church the poet baptized three of his children. Here industrialist Putilov, merchant Eliseev, professor Bekhterev, lawyer Planson, architect Meltzer, engineer Chaev, pediatrician Raukhfus built dachas for themselves. In the 1820s, the Imperial Dacha appeared on Kamenny Island, belonging to the royal family. In August 1824, Alexander I issued a decree. Dacha owners on Kamenny Island were ordered that no new buildings should appear, facade alterations only with the highest approval of plans. And it was strictly forbidden to establish taverns, shops, or coffee houses on the island.

In the early 20th century, Kamenny Island became a super-elite cottage settlement. After 1917, the mansions were transferred to children's colonies. And soon a new, revolutionary elite was formed. You couldn't think of a better place to live. On Kamenny appeared a complex of nomenclature dachas for party and state officials. Some mansions housed sanatoriums.

After the revolution, the Islands were called Kirov Islands. The green zone of Kamenny Island became "Quiet Rest" park. Yelagin — the Central Park of Culture and Recreation. Krestovsky — a zone of sports facilities with the main city stadium, rowing canal and Primorsky Victory Park.

Very few architectural monuments have been preserved in this district of St. Petersburg. There are practically no noble estates. They existed and life was bustling, including dacha life. But, as a rule, estate houses were wooden. Fires and wars left practically nothing. During the blockade, everything wooden went for heating.

In pre-Petrine times there were dense forests here, and the land was strewn with stones. Kamenny Nos manor, as this district appears on old maps, was granted by Peter to Baron Ostermann "in eternal possession." A few years later "for many crimes" the baron was sentenced to death, which was commuted to exile. The lands "in eternal possession" were transferred to Count Bestuzhev-Ryumin. Both Ostermann and Bestuzhev-Ryumin resettled their peasants here. One from the Volga region, the other from Little Russia. The peasants cleared forests, drained swamps, built houses. Palaces — for the masters, village huts — for themselves. Thus appeared: New Village — for the newly arrived, Old — for the previously resettled. Then Bestuzhev's lands were also taken away. And although the count himself was not exiled, nevertheless, part of the lands was confiscated, re-gifted, and rented out. Soon the Yakovlevs, Shishmarevs, Manzeys, Sabirs settled here.

One of the few surviving dachas and buildings in general in the Old Village area is the Shishmarev estate. Karl Bryullov and Orest Kiprensky visited Afanasy Shishmarev. The portrait of the Shishmarev sisters, Olga and Alexandra, by Bryullov's brush, can be seen in the Russian Museum. For O. Kiprensky, Afanasy Shishmarev built a special summer workshop, and the artist painted a portrait of the owner. Now the Shishmarev dacha houses a children's art school.

Between Bolshaya Nevka and Chernaya Rechka was the estate with park of the Stroganov barons — Stroganov dacha. In 1754, architect Rinaldi built a pavilion in the park resembling the Roller Coaster in Oranienbaum. True, the Roller Coaster appeared later than the Stroganov dacha. Probably Rinaldi was practicing on the Stroganov dacha. Nearby was a pond, in the center of which stood a marble sculpture of Neptune standing on sea horses (hippocampi). In Stroganov's garden was a library. True, it existed for only one year, because many took books home and didn't return them. Subsequent Strogovs and other architects added to and rebuilt the estate. In 1898 the dacha was turned into an apartment building. In 1908, Stroganov's heirs considered the dacha, garden, and everything in it unnecessary for themselves. The dacha was demolished.

At the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, dacha life became a mass social phenomenon characteristic only of Russia. Demand for countryside recreation grew each year. Especially with the appearance of railways and a new class — civil servants, creative intelligentsia, engineers, doctors. They didn't have family estates, but wanted to leave smoky and dusty cities for the countryside. They didn't have means to purchase housing, so they rented it. Not renting a dacha was harmful to health and reputation.

Rental advertisements appeared in the journal "Property Ownership and Urban Economy" from March 20 and disappeared in the 20s of May. Most often dacha houses were unfurnished. Dacha residents brought their own. In baggage they checked not only boxes, cardboard cases and small dogs, but also sofas, wardrobes, chairs. If you could reach the dacha by train, several families would unite and hire a car.

Dacha residents rested at their dachas. No cucumber beds. Walks, picnics, swimming. Yachts, tennis, croquet. Yacht clubs and tennis courts were an integral part of dacha settlements.

In 1885 the journal "Dacha Life" appeared. It printed dacha chronicles. Advice on dacha arrangement. Reviews of dacha theaters. In one issue "Dacha Etiquette" was published. "Dacha life can be defined by three words: simplicity, hospitality on the part of the host, modesty on the part of the visitor. Arrivals make visits first, first to government persons, then to neighbors with whom it's desirable to establish acquaintance. When guests are invited for several days, hosts should constrain their personal freedom as little as possible, otherwise the visit becomes torture for the visitor."

The journal's pages told soul-chilling horrors of how a dacha resident fell under train wheels or drowned while swimming. Anecdotes were printed:

— Tell me, do guests often come to visit you in summer?
— Never!
— Lucky you! How do you arrange this?
— Oh, very simply! I myself am constantly visiting someone.

Races, "minerashki," airplanes — everything mixed up in the dacha suburb

As dacha territories grew, the entertainment industry also developed.

In 1834, a clinic was built in New Village with artificial "healing and refreshing waters according to the well-known and tested method of Dr. A. Stuve." The clinic was surrounded by a large garden. About 30 types of mineral waters were produced on site and distributed in buffets. Bathhouses, steam rooms and bath rooms were arranged. But the establishment was not popular. People called it "minerashki" (little mineral waters). To attract visitors, they began holding entertainment evenings with feasting, fireworks and attractions. The place became attractive to golden youth and fashionable press. Soon "minerashki" was rented by Ivan Ivanovich Izler, owner of a restaurant on Nevsky. He surrounded the garden territory with a fence and began charging admission. For entertainment he invited gypsies, a gymnastic troupe of Arab-Kabyles, Aztec dwarfs. At concerts a Tyrolean choir and the first French chansonettes performed. The place became extraordinarily popular. Ticket price didn't matter.

Everyone wanted to get into Izler's garden. In winter 1866, electric lanterns sparkled over the garden's skating rink. They appeared on St. Petersburg streets only 17 years later. But in August 1876, on the concert hall stage, flames suddenly flared up in four places at once. And in an hour, Minerashki was no more. Izler's garden changed owners, sometimes "Livadia" opened, sometimes "Arcadia." Winter gardens, stages, Chinese pavilions. Sterlet swam in an artificial pond with waterfalls and rocks. A brass band played. Chaliapin, Sobinov, Nezhdanova performed.

On July 23, 1893, the Ozerkovskaya line of the private Primorsky St. Petersburg-Sestroretsk railway was opened. Passengers traveled from St. Petersburg (New Village) through Komendantskoye Field, Kolomyagi to Ozerki. In summer this was a very busy direction. It transported dacha residents. Some to dachas, some to races. To the "Races" railway platform. Next to the platform was a hippodrome.

Kolomyazhsky hippodrome was built according to L. Benois's design. The main event of the year was the season opening ceremony. Despite expensive tickets, on Thursdays and Saturdays crowds of St. Petersburg residents went to the races. After the races concluded, a procession of carriages headed to fashionable St. Petersburg restaurants. Besides races, air shows were held at the hippodrome. In 1910, the Imperial All-Russian Aero Club held Aviation Week. The show was a huge success, but it turned out that the hippodrome wasn't very convenient for flights. In autumn 1910, Komendantskoye Field became the airfield. After 1917, the hippodrome stands were dismantled, remaining buildings were used as vegetable warehouses. Now on the former racecourse is the "Primorsky Quarter" residential complex.

In 1908, the suburban restaurant "Villa Rodé" was opened. It was opened by Adoliy Sergeevich Rodé, manager of Krestovsky Garden. Regular visitors to the restaurant were A. Blok, A. Kuprin. They say V. Lenin and G. Rasputin could also have had a drink there. But this isn't certain. What is certain is that Rodé was friends with M. Gorky. This friendship helped him safely survive the revolution and arrange himself well as a steward in the "House of Scientists." In 1921, Adoliy Sergeevich was arrested by the Cheka for speculation with food rations. But apparently he managed to escape. It's not known for certain. It's just that at the same time a restaurant with the same name opened in France. Or didn't open. But there was an announcement about the opening.

Dachas in Russia are not just a place for barbecues and dacha wars, but a real historical arena where emperors distributed plots and poets sought inspiration. These are not only country houses, but real cultural monuments that continue to live and develop. And who knows, perhaps in the future we will see new dacha stories that will tell about our life and culture.