Princes' Islands — a quiet oasis in Istanbul
Are you tired of Istanbul's noise, endless traffic jams, and concrete-covered beaches? Want to escape the hustle and bustle but don't have the opportunity to fly further south? I know what to recommend. Just 1.5-2 hours by boat and you're in the vacation spot of wealthy Istanbul residents - the Princes' Islands.
In fact, nobody here calls them the Princes' Islands. Everyone says "Adalar," which in Turkish simply means "islands." There's no need to specify which ones. People will understand you. If the conversation is about other pieces of land, locals will definitely clarify - Maldivian adalar or Seychelles. But if it's just "Adalar," rest assured, they're talking about the Princes' Islands.
There are nine islands in total, but only four are accessible to tourists: Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kınalıada. The rest are uninhabited or privately owned.
There are nine islands in total, but only four are accessible to tourists: Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kınalıada. The rest are uninhabited or privately owned.
Where the name comes from
Why are they called the Princes' Islands? After all, the Ottoman Empire had sultans, not kings, and şehzade, not princes. The history of the Princes' Islands began during the Byzantine Empire. Byzantine princes and other subjects who displeased the emperor were exiled here as punishment. This was done to distance them from court life and nip in the bud any claims to the throne. Although, of course, it's hard to imagine such a beautiful location serving as a place of exile.
During the Ottoman Empire, the Princes' Islands were inhabited by Christians: Greeks, Armenians, and also Jews. Gradually, the Adalar transformed into a vacation spot and summer residence for wealthy Istanbul residents. Dachas, villas, and summer residences were built on the islands. They became popular among intellectuals, artists, and writers.
During the Ottoman Empire, the Princes' Islands were inhabited by Christians: Greeks, Armenians, and also Jews. Gradually, the Adalar transformed into a vacation spot and summer residence for wealthy Istanbul residents. Dachas, villas, and summer residences were built on the islands. They became popular among intellectuals, artists, and writers.
Interestingly, in 1919, a conference was planned to be held on the archipelago that was supposed to end the Civil War in Russia.
How to get there
It's easy to reach the Adalar via regular ferry boats - vapurs. Purchase tickets from the machines available at each station. It's more economical to pay for transportation with an Istanbul card. Prices vary depending on the stop and transportation company.
There are several daily departures from Kabataş station. The advantage is that you'll reach your destination without transfers. The ferry has a buffet that sells tea, coffee, and snacks. The disadvantages are that the journey takes from 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on the specific island you want to visit. First, you need to cross the Bosphorus and only then head to the archipelago. The vapur stops at many piers. Such trips are quite tiring and crowded.
You can travel most of the way by land. Go to Bostancı station on the Marmaray line, and from there sail to your destination. The sea journey will take 30-40 minutes.
Ferries run regularly, but you need to keep an eye on the schedule, especially for evening departures. There's a risk of spending the night on the island if you linger too long.
The third option - the most comfortable - is voyages with Courage-Voyage. Here you'll be your own master, able to plan your route and journey exactly as you like! Such a trip will definitely remain in your memory for a long time.
You can travel most of the way by land. Go to Bostancı station on the Marmaray line, and from there sail to your destination. The sea journey will take 30-40 minutes.
Ferries run regularly, but you need to keep an eye on the schedule, especially for evening departures. There's a risk of spending the night on the island if you linger too long.
The third option - the most comfortable - is voyages with Courage-Voyage. Here you'll be your own master, able to plan your route and journey exactly as you like! Such a trip will definitely remain in your memory for a long time.
Voyage to the Princes' Islands
We'll depart from Istanbul and set course for the Princes' Islands. Here, we'll indulge in refreshing swims at scenic coves, bask in the sun's warmth, and even make landfall on the largest island in the archipelago to embark on a guided exploration of its
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What to do
See what your summer cottage would look like if you were born in Istanbul. The islands are home to an incredible number of exquisite mansions. The wooden ones are especially beautiful. Some of them have been restored and look Instagram-worthy. Others haven't been touched by their owners for decades. Together, all this creates an eclectic mix of new and old, the forces of nature and human intellect.
Each island has forests, mountain trails, and roads along the seashore where you can walk all day. Istanbul has few parks and natural attractions. The islands have plenty of these.
There is no automobile transport on the Adalar, with the exception of service vehicles. Mostly, people get around using electric carts. Previously, there were horses on the largest island, Büyükada. Upon arrival, tourists would be seated in carriages and taken on a sightseeing tour around the entire island. But the animals were kept in terrible conditions. The smell was appropriate. Several years ago, this business was closed to the delight of local residents.
In summer, people come here to sunbathe and swim. This beach location is perhaps the most accessible for residents of the city on two continents. Be prepared that you will likely have to pay for entrance to the beach. Many beaches provide free transfers from the main pier. There are also free beaches, but don't expect fine sand. Most likely, you'll find fairly large pebbles.
In winter, you can also find many interesting activities here. During the off-season, the islands are especially quiet and peaceful. It's an excellent time to soak up the local atmosphere from head to toe. The water in winter is clean, with incredible shades of blue and green.
There is no automobile transport on the Adalar, with the exception of service vehicles. Mostly, people get around using electric carts. Previously, there were horses on the largest island, Büyükada. Upon arrival, tourists would be seated in carriages and taken on a sightseeing tour around the entire island. But the animals were kept in terrible conditions. The smell was appropriate. Several years ago, this business was closed to the delight of local residents.
In summer, people come here to sunbathe and swim. This beach location is perhaps the most accessible for residents of the city on two continents. Be prepared that you will likely have to pay for entrance to the beach. Many beaches provide free transfers from the main pier. There are also free beaches, but don't expect fine sand. Most likely, you'll find fairly large pebbles.
In winter, you can also find many interesting activities here. During the off-season, the islands are especially quiet and peaceful. It's an excellent time to soak up the local atmosphere from head to toe. The water in winter is clean, with incredible shades of blue and green.
At any time of year, you will be offered bicycle rentals to explore the surroundings. The terrain on the islands is hilly, so be prepared for physical exertion.
Büyükada
The largest and most popular island among tourists. The name speaks for itself: "büyük" means large, "ada" means island.
Famous personalities have long favored it. Leon Trotsky lived here during his exile. They say he enjoyed going fishing with locals. A special pool was even built in his house where he could release his catch. Today, only the facade of the mansion remains. But it's still interesting to see it.
Famous personalities have long favored it. Leon Trotsky lived here during his exile. They say he enjoyed going fishing with locals. A special pool was even built in his house where he could release his catch. Today, only the facade of the mansion remains. But it's still interesting to see it.
Another famous building is the Greek Prinkipo Orphanage. The building is the largest wooden structure in Europe and the second largest in the world. From 1903 to 1964, it was a shelter for orphaned children. Initially, the building was conceived as a luxury hotel and casino. There are many legends about the orphanage; supposedly, there was a fire. Orphans died. Their ghosts still wander through the half-ruined house. Currently, the orphanage is in a state of disrepair, surrounded by a fence. But it's worth walking around and seeing it. The place has atmosphere.
The Princes' Islands Museum is located in a helicopter hangar that previously belonged to rescue services. In the museum, you can learn about the history of the archipelago, famous residents, and nature.
The Princes' Islands Museum is located in a helicopter hangar that previously belonged to rescue services. In the museum, you can learn about the history of the archipelago, famous residents, and nature.
There is also the Greek Monastery of St. George Koudounas. George Koudounas is the same Saint George the Victory-Bearer. People come to the monastery to make wishes. It's especially good to do this on April 23, the saint's feast day. For a wish to come true, it is believed that you need to stretch a thread from the foot of the hill to the entrance of the temple. If it doesn't break, then your wish will come true.
Cape Dilburnu is a nature park in a picturesque location on Büyükada. Entrance to the park is paid, so bring cash with you. The cape offers a beautiful view of Istanbul. You can rest among the pine trees after a walk. Be sure to ride the swings that will transport you back to your childhood.
The house of writer Reşat Nuri is another attraction, especially beloved by women. The author of "The Wren" lived on Büyükada. It was in this house that he wrote his famous novel. The house is still used for its intended purpose; the author's heirs still live here.
The house of writer Reşat Nuri is another attraction, especially beloved by women. The author of "The Wren" lived on Büyükada. It was in this house that he wrote his famous novel. The house is still used for its intended purpose; the author's heirs still live here.
As for restaurants, don't expect anything sophisticated. However, there are plenty of cozy, homely establishments with beautiful views. Eskibağ Teras is one of them. Meze and a panorama of the Marmara Sea. What could be better?
For children, get ice cream from Uncle Yunus. It's good for cooling off on a hot day. Yunus travels with his cart all over the island. You can recognize him by the crowd of children that constantly surrounds him
For children, get ice cream from Uncle Yunus. It's good for cooling off on a hot day. Yunus travels with his cart all over the island. You can recognize him by the crowd of children that constantly surrounds him
You can drink an exquisite cocktail at the Splendid Palace Hotel in Büyükada.
My favorite type of snack on the islands is to get coffee and Turkish pastries and go for an impromptu mini-picnic in the mountains.
My favorite type of snack on the islands is to get coffee and Turkish pastries and go for an impromptu mini-picnic in the mountains.
Heybeliada
The greenest of all the Princes' Islands. There aren't as many people here as on Büyükada.
It's famous for the Cevahir open-air water park. Not only children but also adults will enjoy this place because, in addition to water slides, there is a sandy beach. The water park only operates during warm months.
Walking around the island is a wonderful cardio workout, as there are four hills with picturesque observation decks. At the top of Hope Hill is the Halki Theological School with a magnificent garden where peacocks live. The Holy Trinity Monastery is also located here.
It's famous for the Cevahir open-air water park. Not only children but also adults will enjoy this place because, in addition to water slides, there is a sandy beach. The water park only operates during warm months.
Walking around the island is a wonderful cardio workout, as there are four hills with picturesque observation decks. At the top of Hope Hill is the Halki Theological School with a magnificent garden where peacocks live. The Holy Trinity Monastery is also located here.
It's also worth visiting the Ismet İnönü House Museum – the summer residence of Turkey's second president, who settled here in 1924. The interiors of that time have been preserved inside, and the building is surrounded by a beautiful garden.
Heybeliada was the scene of a beautiful love story between Turkish poet Yahya Kemal and Celile, the mother of famous author Nazım Hikmet. The lovers last saw each other at the island's pier. Celile left the Adalar by ferry, and Yahya Kemal wrote these lines:
"There will come a moment when the ship leaves the port, Raises anchor, rushing toward Eternity, And, cutting through the surface of impassive waters, Sets a course the length of Infinity."
I recommend trying seafood and fish at Zehra Heybeliada Restaurant.
"There will come a moment when the ship leaves the port, Raises anchor, rushing toward Eternity, And, cutting through the surface of impassive waters, Sets a course the length of Infinity."
I recommend trying seafood and fish at Zehra Heybeliada Restaurant.
Burgazada
This island is even more deserted than the two mentioned above. So enjoy the provincial atmosphere.
The blue-domed church of Aya Yani is worth your attention. It was founded in 876. The building that has survived to this day dates from the 19th century.
Be sure to visit Madam Martha Koyu. According to legend, an Armenian ballerina named Martha lived on these shores, who bathed naked in a secluded bay every day. Soon, tormented by the condemnation of locals, she decided to leave the world of humans and went to sea forever. Since then, this bay has borne her name.
The blue-domed church of Aya Yani is worth your attention. It was founded in 876. The building that has survived to this day dates from the 19th century.
Be sure to visit Madam Martha Koyu. According to legend, an Armenian ballerina named Martha lived on these shores, who bathed naked in a secluded bay every day. Soon, tormented by the condemnation of locals, she decided to leave the world of humans and went to sea forever. Since then, this bay has borne her name.
The Sait Faik Museum is the home of one of Turkey's outstanding literary figures. The science fiction writer acquired a mansion on the island in 1938. Admiring the beauty of the local nature, he often mentioned the Princes' Islands in his works. 16 of the 19 stories he wrote were created on Burgazada. After the creator's death, the building was converted into a museum.
Kalpazankaya Restaurant is an excellent place for a traditional Turkish lunch or dinner with rakı. There are stunning views from here, but it's better to come in the evening to see the sunset.
Kalpazankaya Restaurant is an excellent place for a traditional Turkish lunch or dinner with rakı. There are stunning views from here, but it's better to come in the evening to see the sunset.
Kınalıada
The small island of Kınalıada can be walked around in a few hours. It's quicker to reach as it's the closest – the first on the way to the archipelago. Mosques, Armenian churches, and Orthodox temples peacefully coexist here.
For lunch or dinner, I recommend visiting Teos Kınalıada Beach & Restaurant. There's an amazing view of Istanbul here.
For lunch or dinner, I recommend visiting Teos Kınalıada Beach & Restaurant. There's an amazing view of Istanbul here.
Sedefada
This small island has become accessible to visitors recently. Its area is only 0.157 km². To walk around there, you need to plan your trip during the summer months, as ferries to Sedefada only depart during this time. Alternatively, you can book a boat trip to the Princes' Islands from Courage-Voyage.
There is no variety of restaurants and other establishments here. Elio Sedef will not disappoint you.
There is no variety of restaurants and other establishments here. Elio Sedef will not disappoint you.
The Adalar will definitely leave no one indifferent. Each island is unique and has its own special charm. Set aside a day from your trip to take a leisurely stroll here. You will see a different Istanbul, completely unlike anything else.
The Princes' Islands are a "cocktail" consisting of natural beauty, historical heritage, and cultural diversity. It's an ideal place to relax away from the urban bustle, yet still within the boundaries of the metropolis. Despite the development of tourism, the provincial charm still manages to be preserved here. Experience this fragile authenticity before it finally dissolves in the wave of globalization.
The Princes' Islands are a "cocktail" consisting of natural beauty, historical heritage, and cultural diversity. It's an ideal place to relax away from the urban bustle, yet still within the boundaries of the metropolis. Despite the development of tourism, the provincial charm still manages to be preserved here. Experience this fragile authenticity before it finally dissolves in the wave of globalization.
Ekaterina Kosova
- author of the article
I moved to Istanbul before it became mainstream. I love exploring the eternal city and discovering interesting and delicious places. I write texts, professionally stroll and travel, and freeze moments through photos and videos.
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