The high-rise on Kotelnicheskaya embankment — history and famous residents

There are certain architectural constants in Moscow's appearance without which it's impossible to imagine our capital. One of them is the high-rise tower at the confluence of the Moscow and Yauza rivers, on Kotelnicheskaya embankment. Most likely, you've seen it — even if you've never been to Moscow: the high-rise on Kotelnicheskaya embankment "starred" in such cult films as "Moscow Does Not Believe in Tears," "Pokrovsky Gates," "Brother-2," and "Hipsters."

Now, when new skyscrapers are growing throughout the capital, the high-rise on Kotelnicheskaya no longer seems so grandiose. It can no longer be called either the tallest building or the most comfortable housing. But it will forever remain an architectural monument, a symbol of the Soviet Union's might. What stories does it remember? What secrets and legends do its majestic walls keep?

This place was once considered the outskirts, the periphery of Moscow. A low, rather dirty bank of the Yauza river, which suffered from flooding during spring floods. Here, on the outskirts, lived the urban poor. In the early 17th century, craftsmen's settlements engaged in fire-hazardous crafts were moved here from the Kremlin walls — potters, brazier makers, coppersmiths. The coppersmiths — masters who made metal dishes and church utensils — gave the area its name. Back gates of houses opened onto the bank, garbage was thrown here, and slops were poured out.

Emperor Peter the Great was the first to pay attention to the condition of Moscow's embankments — by decree of 1722, property owners were obligated to maintain order on the banks adjacent to their houses.

The renewed, cleaned river banks became a more pleasant place to live: officials, merchants, and townspeople began to settle on Kotelnicheskaya embankment. Not far from the river, at the end of the 18th century, the magnificent Tutolmin estate grew up: a beautiful ensemble in the classicism style that, according to legend, served as the prototype for Count Bezukhov's estate in the novel "War and Peace."

After the Revolution and Civil War, power changed not only on the scale of the enormous country, but also in the small, quiet settlement. Its new residents became servants of the new order — NKVD officers, artists, film workers. Old, one- and two-story houses were demolished, and multi-story buildings were erected in their place.

One of the ambitious projects of the young Soviet government was the construction of high-rise buildings in Moscow — in height they could compete with American skyscrapers.

The project was timed to celebrate Moscow's 800th anniversary and there were supposed to be 8 high-rises, plus a gigantic Palace of Soviets near the Kremlin. The plan was not fully implemented. The Palace of Soviets could not be built, and in the end there were only seven high-rises.

The Stalinist high-rises acquired the poetic name "Seven Sisters." And the eldest of them is the heroine of today's article, the high-rise on Kotelnicheskaya embankment.

Construction of the first building, running along Kotelnicheskaya embankment, was completed in 1940. Inside were placed communal apartments for NKVD officers.

After World War II, construction continued. The central, truly high-rise building remained to be erected. The project's author was Moscow's chief architect — Dmitry Nikolaevich Chechulin. And, they say, he was personally supervised by Stalin.

The builders of the high-rises faced a mass of difficulties. The Soviet Union still had no experience in erecting such large-scale buildings. There was no suitable construction equipment, not enough workers. There were doubts: would the unstable sandy loam soil be able to withstand the pressure of the structure?

During the construction of these buildings, construction on frozen ground, concrete pumps, self-lifting tower cranes, high-altitude welding and other innovations were used for the first time. The "Seven Sisters" became the embodiment of advanced construction technologies. The finishing matched the construction: each building had its own, special design.

The "calling card" of the high-rise on Kotelnicheskaya embankment became the bas-reliefs on the facades and grandiose statues glorifying the simple Soviet worker.

The interior decoration was also striking in its luxury: spacious halls with high ceilings, stucco molding, paintings, high-speed elevators, a concierge in each entrance...

"Our people will live in our house," Stalin said. Apartments in the elite building were given to military personnel and NKVD officers. But already the next year, after Stalin's death, representatives of the creative intelligentsia began moving into the house: actors, writers... We can recall such stars as:

▪︎ World-famous actress Faina Ranevskaya
▪︎ Ballerina Galina Ulanova
▪︎ Poet Alexander Tvardovsky
▪︎ Composer Nikita Boguslavsky
▪︎ Writer Konstantin Paustovsky
▪︎ Singer Lyudmila Zykina

In a house populated by creators, the atmosphere was also creative: the famous joker Nikita Boguslavsky frightened neighbors by dressing up as a ghost. Faina Ranevskaya invited Alexander Tvardovsky hospitably: "The doors of my closet are always open to you!"

All conditions were created for the star residents. The apartments had modern ventilation, imported plumbing, garbage chutes in each apartment. In the courtyard were arranged an underground garage, ice rink, playground and tennis court. On the first floor of the high-rise were a bakery, beauty salon, tailoring workshops and even their own cinema. It was a real city within a city!

We want to tell about the cinema in particular.

The first cinema opened in the high-rise soon after the completion of its construction: in 1954. The first film shown within its walls was the new color film "The Reserve Player."

The first 12 years of the cinema's life were not particularly memorable for Muscovites.

But in 1966 something wonderful happened: the cinema became a venue for showing rare films from the collection of the All-Union State Film Fund.

The cinema received a new name "Illusion," and a new purpose. Under the pretext of educational goals, they began showing rare films there. Such films that could not be seen anywhere else in the Soviet Union. Ancient masterpieces of silent cinema, foreign novelties, films by young directors not approved for wide release by censorship...

"Illusion" became one of the most popular cinemas in the USSR. Scalpers sold tickets to it at crazy prices, thousands of crowds gathered at the doors before screenings.

Here you could see films by Tarkovsky, Kurosawa, Fellini, Antonioni. And sometimes even attend a creative meeting with one of these directors. The walls of "Illusion" remember many luminaries of cinematography!

This cinema remains a symbol of aesthetics and good taste to this day. Here in luxurious interiors in the spirit of Stalinist Empire style, screenings of rare films, lectures, meetings with directors take place. The cafe sells exquisite pastries, the book kiosk has an excellent selection of literature on film history. It seems "Illusion" is a fragment of that era when art was treated seriously and with taste.

Despite its relatively short lifespan — less than 80 years — the high-rise on Kotelnicheskaya embankment is full of legends — sometimes mysterious, sometimes sad, sometimes ominous.

They say that in Soviet times it was a strategic object: allegedly Stalin's residence was located in its main tower, and in the basements begins an underground passage running under the Yauza riverbed and ending at the very Kremlin. According to another version, this passage led to Bunker-42: a shelter for the Soviet government in case of nuclear war.

Another layer of legends is connected with the fact that the labor of prisoners was actively used in the construction of the high-rise. Residents of the house told that on their windows and doors they found inscriptions scratched by forced laborers. There were also more terrible finds: a foreman's corpse walled up in the wall... And one prisoner managed to escape by making plywood wings and flying away on them from one of the upper floors...

Another curious legend is connected with the permanent but inconspicuous residents of the high-rise — cockroaches. They say they were amazing: black, large and surprisingly hardy: no poison worked on them. No matter how they tried to drive them out — everything was in vain! But once all the cockroaches of the high-rise unanimously left it. They walked down the street in a huge swarm, resembling a moving carpet. Where they were heading, what Pied Piper was leading this strange army — is unknown. But since then no one has seen them...

Today the high-rise does not meet modern requirements for soundproofing, comfort, and electrification. Weak wiring and a small number of outlets do not correspond to the demands of the modern energy-intensive era.

Nevertheless, many desire to acquire square meters in the coveted building, to find themselves among the creative elite. Among the "star" apartment owners, for example, is Dmitry Nagiev.

Those who cannot afford to buy an apartment in the legendary house rent it. Prices are quite reasonable: starting from 6,500 rubles per night.

However, you can admire the interiors much more cheaply: by visiting one of the public establishments located in the building: the "Illusion" cinema or the "most luxurious in Moscow" "Red and White" store.

There's also another option: visit the museum-apartment of the great ballerina Galina Ulanova located in the high-rise.

Or you can simply admire the building from the water, view it from different angles while enjoying a walk along the Moscow River.

Address: 5th Kotelnicheskiy lane, 11

That very underground shelter to which, according to rumors, a passage led from the high-rise on Kotelnicheskaya embankment. Construction of the bunker began soon after World War II. It was designed as a command post from which the government headed by Stalin could manage the country after a nuclear war. Construction was completed after Stalin's death, in 1956. The bunker housed the Long-Range Aviation Command Headquarters. From here, nuclear aviation regiments of the entire Soviet Union were controlled. The facility was classified and hidden behind the sign of the Ministry of Defense library.

After the collapse of the USSR and the warming of international relations, the bunker was declassified. Now it houses an impressive Cold War museum, artistic film shoots are conducted, creative evenings of science fiction writers, war games and other cultural events take place.

Address: Goncharnaya street, 3, building 3

Very close to the high-rise building is the amazing private Museum of Russian Icons. It was founded by patron and entrepreneur Mikhail Abramov. His goal was to return Russian spiritual heritage to the homeland. For many years he bought objects of Russian spiritual art at foreign auctions and assembled a unique museum collection.

The exhibition includes both ancient Russian icons, and wooden sculptures of saints made in the Russian North, and an Old Believer prayer room.

A separate hall is dedicated to Ethiopian religious art — after all, the Ethiopian Church, like the Russian one, is Orthodox.

Address: Vysotsky street, 3, building 1

The museum of the great Soviet singer, poet and actor is located near Taganskaya metro station, near the Taganka Theater, where Vladimir Semyonovich Vysotsky worked for many years.

The museum has an interesting, interactive exhibition. You can listen to recordings of Vysotsky's voice, watch his films. The holographic image of the singer particularly amazes visitors.

The museum also hosts theatrical performances, lectures, and exhibitions.

Address: Yauzsky boulevard, 13

On Yauzsky boulevard, not far from the embankment, in a cozy old mansion is located a small but very interesting border troops museum. It contains exhibits telling about the history of border service since the times of Ancient Rus.

There are many authentic objects here — those that border guards use in their work, as well as those that border control officers confiscated from smugglers and spies. Tours are conducted by real military personnel, professionals in their field.

Since the museum is departmental, you can only get in by prior appointment.

The best way to examine the Stalinist high-rise is from the Moscow River. From the water the building looks especially beautiful: you can see both the massive foundation and the tall spire. During a water walk, the high-rise appears from different sides — sometimes it seems huge against the background of old houses, sometimes it looks elegant against the sky.

Our "Kremlin voyage" and "Voyage to City" pass right by this building. Here you can admire the architecture and hear fascinating stories about the high-rise from the guide — from the water they sound even more interesting.